If you’re looking to explore unique food destinations north of the border, chef Mandel Hitzer has one recommendation for you: Winnipeg, Manitoba. Ask him and he might even invite you to his restaurant, deer + almond, so he can convince you himself. Chances are you’ll walk away enlightened.
Hitzer is one of a group of young chefs finding their place in Winnipeg, where a gastronomic revolution has been underway for more than a decade. The city has gradually become a paradise for foodies looking to take a bite out of a town that has a habit of flying under the radar.
“We have a really vibrant food culture that’s evolving a lot right now,” Hitzer says. “Winnipeg is like the diamond in the rough in Canada. It’s the best-kept secret of what Canada has to offer.”
The city’s food scene is famous across the country, both for its niche establishments and its acclaimed restaurants. These include Peasant Cookery, which serves French-inspired comfort food with a twist, and the Albert Street Cocktail Company, commonly referred to as “Winnipeg’s first cocktail bar.” Classic dishes like the truffle pierogis at Fusion Grill or bone marrow with roasted shallot puree at SMITH exemplify the diversity of Canada’s local ingredients.
Many of Hitzer’s own favorites, including acclaimed tapas bar Segovia and authentic Japanese restaurant Yujiro, exemplify the hip, diverse offerings that have foodies flocking to the city.
“We’re getting kind of out of the old French bistro fine dining thing, and now we have these really funky, cool, more artisanal spots with people focusing on doing one thing and doing it well — whether it be brunch, or smoked meat, or donuts, or whatever that may be.”
As far as best-kept secrets go, Hitzer is quick to highlight the diversity of Winnipeg’s food scene, putting special emphasis on restaurants beyond the trendy spots.
“We have these really incredible [places to eat in Winnipeg],” Hitzer adds. “I work in an industry where everybody wants to hear what the hot new restaurants are, but they’re not talking about all these amazing ethnic restaurants.”
Popular restaurants like Rice Bowl, a Filipino eatery whose namesake dish is to die for, and Feast Cafe Bistro, with dishes inspired by traditional First Nations foods, are crown jewels of Winnipeg’s diverse culinary community, both located in the city’s off-the-beaten-path West End neighborhood. The city has Canada’s largest Filipino population per capita, as well as the largest First Nations community in the country. Hitzer isn’t lying when he says that the authentic ethnic food in the city is second to none.
For Hitzer, Winnipeg is a melting pot that inspires his own cuisine. Deer + almond, which focuses on serving local ingredients and creating out-of-the-box dishes, is “heavily influenced by all the ethnic cultures that we have in Winnipeg. There’s all these beautiful things that inspire our cuisine.”
Apart from making a name for himself with his own restaurant, Hitzer also runs an annual dining event, RAW:almond.
Taking place in January on the frozen Red and Assiniboine rivers at The Forks in downtown Winnipeg, RAW:almond brings together top chefs from around the city and across Canada to participate in a pop-up restaurant and food series. It’s a three-week marathon that challenges chefs to see what they can do without the convenience of a modern restaurant — including electricity and indoor plumbing.
The family-style environment encourages diners to share space and company in creative locales designed by up-and-coming architects.
Hitzer explains, “It’s a 21-day opportunity for chefs to come in, work together, meet new people, [and] learn about our beautiful city in the center of Canada and what it has to offer.”
Leave it to a city like Winnipeg to subvert expectations and turn its natural assets into a critically acclaimed spectacle. If you’re coming to the city to eat no matter the time of year, expect to be treated like family — and most of all, expect the unexpected.
This article was originally published in Mpls St Paul.
Photo by Mandel Hitzer